Category Archives: T25

they learnt from their mistakes with this one. The shape was so 80s! but evolved and started to include water cooled editions

Ask The Mechanic – Indicator and Wiper Switch

Indicator and Wiper Switch Assemblies Removal and Repair

The first step is to remove the steering wheel
from the steering column. Before you start,
it’s worth straitening the steering wheel/front
wheels so that when the steering wheel goes
back on, you know where to line it up.
The steering wheel is fitted to a splined shaft
within the column and is fixed with a single
24mm nut.
To access the nut, the horn push in the centre
of the steering wheel has to be removed. The
horn push is usually made of plastic and is often
brittle, so prizing off with a screw driver or metal
scraper is not the best idea. I found that using
a finger nail was sufficient, working my way
round the horn push and lifting upwards (see
pic 1).
With the horn push removed, the 24mm nut
should be revealed and there will also me a
lead and crimp connected to a spade terminal.
Remove this crimp to disconnect the lead and
move to one side to create some space for a
spanner.
Using a 24mm ring spanner or socket and
ratchet (an open ended spanner can slip easily),
loosen the nut but do not remove at this point
(see pic 2).
Mark the position of the wheel in relation to the
shaft using chalk, pencil or paint pen to assist in
lining the wheel back up on fitment.
Now, with the nut still fitted, give the steering
wheel a tug upwards to free it from the splined
shaft. It should become loose but the fitted nut
will prevent you from smashing your face with
the steering wheel (believe me!).
With the wheel loose, remove the 24mm nut and
lift the steering wheel off too. This will expose
the indicator and wiper switch assemblies fitted
to the top of the column (see pic 3).
At this point, you want to remove the cap from
your windscreen washer bottle to depressurise
it (otherwise you will create a drinking fountain
later on!) if you have pressure in your tank,
you’re the exception

Now you can begin to remove the switch
assemblies. Undo and remove the 4 small
screws that hold switch assemblies inside the
steering column and keep them safe with the
24mm nut from earlier.
Now it’s time to disconnect the electrical
connectors from the switch assemblies. Around
halfway down the steering column, the plastic
shroud ends. Underneath this shroud is three
electrical connectors. The two nearest the
driver seat are the two plugs for the wiper and
indicator switches. Give these a gentle tug to
disconnect them and tuck them to one side,
they can’t be mixed up so don’t worry.
With the electrical connectors removed, you
can now begin to pull the switch assemblies up
and out of the steering column. Do this slowly
though as there are two pipes connected
to the back of the wiper switch assembly
for the windscreen washers. These can be
disconnected at this stage and should have
been depressurised earlier (see poic 4).
Now you should be able to remove the switch
assemblies, but be careful not to break the
plastic wiring sleeves as these tend to quite
brittle with age.
With the assemblies removed, I could now see
what had happened with my indictor lever,
the bottom part of the lever mechanism that
operates the switch had snapped ( see pic 5).
The indicator and wiper switch assemblies are
joined to form one piece but are easily split.
They are held together with four metal sleeves
and the two parts can be split easily using a
screw driver (see pic 6).
Once they are split, you can replace either the
indicator or wiper switch assembly (or both)
and fit the two back together using the four
metal sleeves.
Once back in one piece, fitment is the reverse
of the removal. The hardest part of the fitment
for me was locating the wiring plugs under the
plastic shrouding into the correct location to
push the connectors home. This picture helped
me to locate the plugs and they are shaped
in such a way that they can be guided into
position (see pic 7).
Once reconnected, I would recommend that
you test all of the functions of the switches
before refitting the screws and steering wheel,
in case you have to take it all apart again!
Don’t forget that you have marked the steering
wheel to line it up when you refit it too.
The last test should be the horn and don’t forget
to re-pressurise the washer bottle!

Upcoming club event – Golden Valley Vintage Fair & VWT2OC Club Camp

Saturday 10th June 2023

A camp on a Cider Farm! What a wonderful idea!

Display your van and attend this smaller show for free, with an option to camp for just a tenner (advance booking essential). Stay all weekend or just a night, it’s up to you, the price is the same. It costs £7 to attend the show, but if you’re exhibiting your van, it’s free to get in, you just pay for your camping. What a bargain!

Here’s more from our Chairman:

”I was chatting to the organizer of this local car show. We went as an exhibit last year and were one of around 200 cars. The show is one day but it’s on a farm with entertainment barn music on the Saturday night and an adjacent pub with meals.  There will be a few stalls with varied items for sale.” Well, thank you, Malcolm, sounds great!  Visit vintageandcountryfair.co.uk more details, and email me if you’d like to be part of our Club Camp and display: events@vwt2oc.co.uk

Member’s Hack – Ian Crawford’s starting issues

Long time member Ian Crawford had issues with his van that he bought in 1972 at a year old. He still drives it! I should point out the van was a year old, not Ian.

Ian says:

An unusual problem solved the other day. My van would only turn over 2-3 times when
ignition switched on, then it just refused to do anything! I connected my battery charger to the terminals (before switching on) and the lights showed the battery was 20% efficient.
I then switched the charger on and literally within 15 seconds it said 100% charged. I
disconnected and switched off the charger and attempted to start the van.
As before, it only turned over 2-3 times then it wouldn’t do anything. Reconnecting the
charger it again showed only 20%! Once again, charging for around 15 seconds showed the battery 100% charged. Time to retreat and think hard as to what the problem really was and how to solve it. I slept on it and the next day I had a brainwave!
I decided to remove the battery earth strap from where it is bolted to the chassis. Using a steel wool pan scourer, I gave the bare metal a thorough good scrub as well as the underside of the fixing lug of the earth strap. I also smeared Vaseline over both surfaces.
I then refitted the earth strap into the chassis fixing hole and went to start it up. Surprise surprise, it started first time!!
So if you have experienced problems with starting, maybe removing and cleaning the metal around the fixing of the earth strap will solve it.
Hope this gives members some useful tips.

Another one in the bag! Petruth Paddocks

We are all just back from a great week at Petruth Paddocks near Cheddar. Here are some photos of our time there.

Cold air in the cab? Here’s a quick fix!

Phil Jones asked:
After some suggestions please – with colder
weather on the horizon has anyone got any
ideas to heat the cab whilst driving. We have
a heater in the back for when hooked up, but
warm airflow into the cab is non existent…
Thanks in advance!


Andy Carter answered
Standard set up on my T2 will pump hot air into
the cab but it doesn’t seem to have an effect on
the temperature! I think it leaks cold air too much
from various places. Making sure the fresh air vent
is fully closed helps, as does stuffing socks into the
dashboard directional vents!
Other than that, gloves and a woolly hat are
all i have, so interested in what other responses
you get…

Graham Sims answered
We have taped over the windscreen vents with black electrical tape, stops a considerable cold draft.
Also socks in the circular dash vent pipe works a dream. Simply pull out vent cover, stuff in sock, replace
cover. Takes less than 5 seconds! Our cab sometimes gets too warm!

Upcoming club event – Petruth Paddocks

It is all systems go for Petruth Paddocks – are you going? Hope to see you there!

Tuesday 11th April – Monday 17th April 2023

End of Easter Camp at Petruth Paddocks, Cheddar

Last year’s April event was such a huge success, we’re going to do it again!  Just a bit earlier, again starting at the tail end of the Easter weekend. Come for as many or as few nights as you like.

This well-run site with “the best showers and loos” according to our attendees, sits at the foot of the Mendip hills and within a 20-minute walk into Cheddar, its splendid caves and numerous coffee shops. There are also two supermarkets just over half a mile away, and a Post Office in the village. It’s a level walk into Cheddar, and around half of it is traffic-free, more if you’re just going to Sainsbury’s.

Wookey Hole caves, Wells cathedral, and Glastonbury are within easy reach.  Check out www.petruthpaddocks.co.uk to see information about local footpaths, buses, and cycle-ways. On-site facilities include free wi-fi, washing up, and electric hook-ups, as well as those loos and showers.

We’ve secured rally rates again, £15 per unit without electric hook-up instead of £15 per person. Electric will be charged through a pre-payment meter. And we’ll only pay one nightly fee for doggie companions per unit, saving £3 a night for any extra dogs you may have!

In addition to our Club BBQ on the Saturday evening, I hope we’ll be able to offer one or two activities – a coffee catch up on the Sunday morning; a gathering near the Club gazebos and listen to some early evening, easy music from our own Lorna James and/or other members;  a belated Easter egg hunt if we have little ones in our group – I’ll work up the details as we get closer to the event, based on numbers. There is also a local pub, so if all else fails we’ll be able at least to wander along there if we fancy a change of scene for a natter. It’s all in the pot at the moment!

The site operates a Behaviour Bond and a nattering-only policy after 11pm, so if you’re after rock n roll, it’s probably not for you. You can read more at www.petruthpaddocks.co.uk/groups/adult-group-booking.html – your Club is covering the bond. Please note if your party breaks the site’s rules, you will be asked you leave and you may be removed from the club. Not that I expect that to be an issue!

Find out more about what’s going on locally, attractions, facilities, pubs, activities etc. and more about the site itself at www.petruthpaddocks.co.uk

Wakey Wakey!

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Yes, it is that time again. Hurray! Finally, after the long winter in our non-mobile houses, we can get out our beloved vehicles.

Checklist

Hopefully you all followed the article Time for bed/ to help put your vehicle to bed for the winter. Now that spring is in the air and we are starting to think about getting out and communing in nature, this is a key time to get things ready.

Doors locks – there’s nothing more annoying than a failed lock. get it fixed now before the season really gets going. Door lock issues can be very straight forward but a simple lubrication can be key. Pun intended. A non residue lubricant is best to move the dirt away as WD40 can leave enough gunk to create issues. We favour silicon spray. A little into each lock.

Windscreen wipers – did they perish in the cold winter freezing them to the windscreen. Inspect and replace now.

Water – check the radiator if you have one. Ensure that the bottles that you emptied in the Autumn / fall have no mice, carefully hidden Christmas presents or mildew. Clean with a weak Milton solution if it is drinking water or food related.

Batteries – check the charge on each battery with a good meter. A flat battery can indicate an earth leak. A failed battery needs careful investigation.

Carburettor – Or equivalent. Check for good operation, no stuck flaps or other deterioration over winter. If you are a professional, this will be straight forward. If you are an amateur, a test drive very close to home will highlight problems! But only after the other checks.

Brakes – your vehicle should roll easily, otherwise this can indicate jammed brakes. Parking in gear for long periods of time can be better for your brake health than a jammed set of brakes. Check the brakes for operation. Check the brake fluid level. If it has been more than 5 years, change the brake fluid as it is hygroscopic and slurps up water incredibly quickly. Water is not a good fluid for applying the brake pads to the disks.

Seals – inspect all door seals for any signs of damage, water ingress or other problems and sort them out now. Glue any loose bits back down with the correct glue.

Windows – ensure that they all open and close fully. Or at least as fully as they did last year if applicable!

Ignition – Once you are feeling confident, get in to your pride and joy and turn on the ignition to number 2. Look at the lights on the dashboard. Check there ARE lights! Are they what you expect / are used to seeing? Have you got fuel (for those with a working fuel gauge)?

Crank it over – don’t expect it to start immediately but things should kick into life within a few seconds.

A little test drive on your driveway will allow you to test the brakes, maybe the steering and other important parts. Softly, softly.

Stay local, take your phone with you and warm clothing. Just in case!

Once you get home, assuming that you have a big smile on your face, make a list of snags, get indoors, put the kettle on and start planning for your summer.

Check out the events page and come and see us at a meeting soon!

The Mechanic – Dinitrol for T1, T2, T25

This instalment of The Mechanic looks
at how you can protect your VW for
years to come using Dinitrol products.
The biggest threat to any classic vehicle is rust
and unfortunately our beloved Volkswagens
seem to suffer badly. Rust is an iron oxide that
forms by a reaction between iron and oxygen
in the presence of water. With the British
climate being renowned for its rainfall we
need all the help we can to keep rust at bay.
There are numerous products on the market
to help combat rust, if you do your research
there are various opinions on the most suitable
solution. Waxoyl and Dinitrol seem to offer the
best results and the choice of which product
to use comes down to personal choice or ease
of application.
WAXOYL is a long established and proven
method for combating rust. It is a petroleum
based wax product with self-healing
properties that contains oxidation inhibitors
that slow down the growth of rust. It works
by covering the treated area, thus preventing
water and air contacting the treated area.
DINITROL is an oil based product that
contains rust inhibiting ingredients to treat
and stop rust after it has been applied. It also
forms a barrier that prevents further corrosion
occurring. Dinitrol is supplied in several
different forms, a cavity wax for use in inner
sills etc. and an under body wax that dries to
a flexible tough film to withstand rain and salt.
Waxoyl is generally suitable for use on vehicles
that have been restored and have fresh
metal welded into them, whereas Dinitrol is
designed for vehicles with existing surface rust
due to its rust killing abilities.

Guide For a Split, Bay or T25
The range of rear engine transporters are all
unique in their own way, but all suffer from
corrosion in the same way. One problem that
is particular to a Camper is that we create
more moisture due to us living inside, just
boiling a kettle will produce large amounts
of rust inducing steam, sleeping in the van
presents its own problems as we sweat and
breathe out moisture. The underside of any
Van is straight forward to protect. The usual
suspect areas such as inner sill, front valance
etc are easy to access from underneath, but
the inside structure is more challenging. The
front and side door cards are easy enough to
remove but the rear will require removal of the
interior furnishings and panels to gain access,
a time consuming exercise but worthwhile!

The Mechanic – Engine Bay Fire Suppressors

With the summer holidays looming and
everybody planning their travels and holidays,
have you planned your maintenance and
checks of your VW in as much detail? It is
very important to keep your van maintained
properly, but with the hotter weather and
longer than usual journeys; even the most
well maintained engines can suffer problems,
such as perished or split fuel hoses. Something
such as a split fuel hose could mean really
bad news for classic (or even modern)
VW camper owners.
Every summer there are reports on social media
of at least one classic VW that has caught fire
and been lost. Although good maintenance
and preparation should prevent this, there is
always that small chance and a fire suppression
system will provide extra insurance against
losing your van to a fire.


Fire suppression systems are now readily
available and vary in function and cost.
There are manual systems that operate using a
lever and cable to activate the suppressor and
there are also automatic systems. Automatic
systems are preferential as they require no
input from the driver to activate.
Within the automatic suppressor range there
are two main systems that prove to be the
most popular.


The first one is a cylinder (much like a fire
extinguisher) that is mounted in the centre
of the engine bay over the engine and if a
fire occurs in the engine bay, the vial over the
nozzle melts, releasing a gas agent at 240 psi.
The nozzle is designed to ensure 360° dispersal,
meaning that the gas will completely fill the
engine bay. The gas is released at -19°C so will
cool down the engine bay helping to prevent
any re-ignition of petrol vapour. This system is a
small scale version of what is used within oil rigs.

The second automatic system is also a cylinder,
but rather than mounting the cylinder directly
over the engine, the cylinder is mounted
within the engine bay (usually) but out of the
way, (usually the left rear side of the engine
bay is most spacious). This system uses a linear
detection tubing which is installed throughout
the engine compartment. This tubing can not
only quickly and accurately detect a fire but
also extinguish it before it can damage adjacent
components. The tubing is connected to the
cylinder valve and charged with nitrogen or
compressed air. This pressure is utilised to hold
back the extinguishing powder in the cylinder.
Should a high temperature or fire occur, the
pressurised tubing will burst and the powder
will be deployed from the burst hole directly
onto the fire.
Both systems are fully automatic and come
with a full fitting kit.
Fitting is relatively simple and requires no
wiring or electrical input.
The first system with the 360° dispersal nozzle
can be purchased for approximately £60-
£100 and the second system that utilizes the
linear detection tubing can be purchased for
approximately £180-£250.
The design is personal choice and we would
not merit one over the other, but The Mechanic
has had experience of fitting the second system
and found it simple

Ask The Mechanic – Oil

Oil is one of the most important components
of your engine. Without oil, an engine will
overheat and fail. Many Dubbers keep a close
eye on oil levels and top up as required, but
is this enough? Keeping the oil in your engine
at optimum temperature is as important as
maintaining the correct level.
Monitoring the oil temperature in your classic
VW has always been tricky and normally
requires the fitment of an aftermarket system
that can look out of place, be challenging to
install and leave a large dent in your wallet.
However, there is a simple yet very clever
product called “Save My Bug” that can help
you to monitor the oil temperature without
breaking the bank.

“Save My Bug” is an oil temperature dipstick
that replaces your original dipstick and
connects to the oil pressure switch with an
18” wire included in the kit, allowing you to
monitor the engine oil temperature without
the use of an aftermarket gauge.
The oil light on your dash will now not only
operate as an oil pressure warning light, but
will also become an oil temperature warning.
In normal conditions the light will remain
off, if the engine oil temperature starts to
get too hot it will flash, if the light comes
on steady, the engine temperature is
excessively hot (or there is an oil pressure
problem) and you should pull over and stop
the engine immediately.
This has made keeping an eye on oil
temperature whilst driving a doddle and the
installation takes less than 10 minutes for all
levels of ability.
It is available for both the Type-1 engine and
Type-4 engine from most well known aircooled VW specialists for around £30-£40
depending on application